Heading Home...

I remember the day I said to Jay, "we should create a blog for this trip so people can keep up with what we are doing." The intention was for others  - friends, family, alumni. I had no idea that this blog would also benefit us. 

Though by the end of every packed day it was a struggle to form a sentence, yet alone write a cohesive blog, at least one person was always willing. 

This blog became a virtual journal of our time spent in Bulgaria and Romania, and it's nice to have something to look back on a few weeks or even months from now. 

We have done so much, but more importantly (in my opinion) we have seen so much. Yes we have thousands of pictures, but they can't do this trip justice. 

The connections we made and the bonds we formed strengthened the global Jewish community in intangible ways.

I'm heading home with a much larger sense of what the word community means, and look forward to maintaining the connections made while on this trip, as well as continuing to form new ones.

- Lyndsey Havens 

January 12 - Day Eight

Waking up at 6 a.m. this morning took a lot of energy but it was definitely worth it. We started off with a two hour bus ride from Bucharest to the city of Brasov. The drive's scenery was nothing less than breathtaking. We filled our cameras and eyes with pink and orange sunrises and tall mountains. 

Once in the city, we gathered at the Brasov Synagogue to hear the choir sing. They were a smaller group but you could sense their enthusiasm and passion for Jewish music. Soon after we departed for home visits to the elderly. Once again we had eye opening experiences. 

We were given the privilege of seeing a glimpse into real people's lives. The rest of our afternoon consisted of amazing sight seeing of the beautiful city of Brasov and "Dracula's" Castle. 

During our time in Eastern Europe we have had amazing food, seen amazing sights, and walked new streets. However, we have done so much more. We have made amazing personal connections with our new Bulgarian and Romanian friends. 

We have come to find our role in the global Jewish community. We can make a difference; we can make a change. We will think, feel, and act on the principle: kol yisrael arevim Zeh la Zeh...all the people of Israel are responsible for each other.

- Tori Luecking

Today was yet another incredible day. I am NOT a morning person but waking up earlier and earlier every morning has made me realize the importance of fulfilling each day. The three-hour bus ride at 7a.m. let us see the sunrise here in Eastern Europe. We were on our way to what we learned to be an enriched and growing Jewish community of Brasov, Romania. We first visited the Synagogue in Brasov and spoke with the President, Tiberiu Roth. He gave us a brief yet detailed description of the Jewish community there. They make what they have work for their community, it’s that simple. Their stability and responsibility to each of their community members and Jewish people around Brasov is an inspiration. Their choir performed (meaning we watched and participated in their practice session) a few beautiful Romanian and Hebrew songs with enthusiasm and beautiful voices that echoed through the walls of the Synagogue. Compared to other synagogues we’ve visited, Carly and I agreed this one was elegant yet simple. The white and blue color scheme with colored tiled mosaics lining the windows let the little sunshine we had today shine into the temple.

We then split up into groups of four and visited homes of elderly people in Brasov. Samantha, Bailey, Lyndsey, Pearl and I visited an 83 year-old woman who rocked a terry cloth red jumpsuit, my kind of lady. We had two community members with us to help translate. Though this kind elderly woman complained about the state that the Romanian government is in with nearly impossible healthcare reforms, her eyes were filled with tears and warmth when we listened to her speak. We asked questions like how she feels about the Jewish community here, what her family is like and what we can do to help. She was soft-spoken but is appreciative and extremely active for the Jews in Brasov, has family in Canada and would like us to send American postcards to her to show we will think about her. Meeting her and seeing her activeness with her Synagogue was phenomenal. Her Judaism means so much to her that spending time everyday surrounded by her community is enough. One of the community members says other members joke about her being around so much that she has a “prescription” to fill at the Synagogue everyday. Similar to my relationship with KU Hillel, not participating in something as simple as a Shabbat isn’t an option, it’s my responsibility. Following our visit, we had a Kosher lunch at the restaurant connected to the Synagogue called Shalom. I loved the servers’ responses to us thanking them for bringing food to our table, “my pleasure.” The community leaders gave a few gifts to us, as a token of their appreciation. At first I almost didn’t accept this small bag of keychain and chachskis, but after hearing how impactful our visit is to their community is, I realized they’re just as interested, invested and responsible for us, as we are for them.

We managed to fit in a little souvenir shopping to test the Brasov local waters. As we made it to the end of the main shopping street, we had a quick taste of McDonald’s and were almost chased by protesters onto our bus. Don’t worry, our fake European accents we have all picked up, scared them away. A short bus ride to the city of Bran, visiting the Dracula castle, gave a unique perspective of fun site seeing activities. Fortunately, on the way there, the sun was setting on the beautiful mountains of Romania. Being a Kansas native, I was in awe and took many mental pictures of the snow atop the mountains and the orange and pink reflection of the sunrise on the mountains. After a sleepy and neck-aching bus ride back to Bucharest, I woke up to the familiar city we’ve spent a few days in. Who would have thought me, the queen of being directionally challenged would recognize the streets of Bucharest. Pretty cool, ay? We closed our day with a delicious Italian dinner at Restaurante “Il Calcio.” We laughed and shared stories from the day over a carb overload but what else is new.

I think I speak for the entire group including Jay, Carly and Jen; our reflection session today, speaking about the trip in its entirety was powerful and hopeful. Each person had beautiful words to speak about both Bulgaria and Romania that brought more and more tears to my eyes. The conversations and post-trip experiences we are about to experience will be only the stem of the responsibility we all have to our Judaism around the globe.

- Stephanie “let’s just stay” Pollack

Today was the perfect way for me to end my ELM experience even though waking up at 6 a.m. sounded like a drag at the time. We took a 3 hour bus ride to Brasov where I saw the communities beautiful synagogue and heard their choir sing. 

Next, we were split up into groups to visit the elderly members of the community. I went along with 3 others to a woman's house near the synagogue. From the moment I walked in the door she reminded me of my Bubbie. She took our coats, offered us tea and coffee and insisted we kept eating the food she had placed on the table. 

She began by telling us a little about her life but mainly focused on her holocaust experience. My Bubbie is no longer living today but it was nice to feel like I had another Bubbie in my life for a day.

- Shira Levine

January 11 - Day Seven

Finally the fog has lifted.  Walking outside to the bus with clear skies above and warm air all around was a much needed relief, and it couldn’t have been a better day for it.  Today was a perfect day for sight seeing.  The town of Bucharest is filled with diverse buildings and monuments that come together to create an atmosphere unique to the town.  The climax of this tour of course was our stop at the second largest building in the world.  As our group goofed around and took an infinite number of picture for what seemed like a lifetime, I was awestruck by the magnitude of the building in front of me and by how far I needed to back up to fit the entire building in the frame.  All in all, the tours showed that even in the heart of Eastern Europe, a town can be filled with beauty.  Shoved in the middle of our tours was enough food to feed the entire city it seemed, and amazing food at that. If I had known about the food-filled feat that we were facing, I probably would have skipped breakfast and paced myself a little better.  But how else could we have ended a day of sights and scrumptious food than with a party at the JCC?  Even now my ears are ringing from the DJ and singing in the basement club at the Bucharest JCC. It was definitely a night and day to remember for a while.

- Ben Davis

In celebrating Shabbat today, our ELM group took the opportunity to explore the wonderful city of Bucharest and enjoy each other's company. In addition to our guided tour through Bucharest and an incredibly delicious lunch, most of the day was an opportunity to shop with friends, have great conversations, and truly relish the time that we have with our group. The day was truly complete after a traditional Romanian feast (with an enormous amount of food!), a Havdalah ceremony with members of the Bucharest Jewish community, and a fun dance party to end the night! While tomorrow is our last full day in Europe, we have learned so much from these communities and will take all of these memories with us back to KU!

- Evan Traylor 

January 10 - Day Six

After a seven-hour delay in the Bulgarian airport, followed by an eight-hour bus ride across the Romanian border into the city of Bucherest, I had no idea what would happen next. 

Waking up this morning, I was groggy and still feeling slightly worn down from our almost full 24 hours of traveling the day before.  Everything changed the second we arrived at the Rosen Old Age Home this afternoon. 

In Romania, the majority of the Jewish population is over the age of 65 and most of them are survivors of the Holocaust.  Even though many people we met this afternoon were well over the age of 65 and had lived through horrific tragedies, the energy at the Rosen Home was so vibrant and full of life that no one would ever assume it was an assisted living home for the elderly.  

I had the great fortune to meet Anetina Klarfeld.  Anetina will celebrate her 102nd birthday this year and spent our 45-minute visit telling us dirty jokes in perfect English.  Anetina was laughing and smiling and so happy to have visitors. One of the top priorities of the Romanian Jewish community is to make all of the Holocaust survivors comfortable, happy and welcomed.  

My experience today reminded me that age does not define a person.  I feel very inspired by what happened at the Rosen Home today and I feel so grateful to have had that experience. 

-   - Leah Swartz

After the retirement center, we did a bus tour around the city of Bucharest. We saw many great things like the strip of Museums in the city. Afterwards, we visited the Holocaust Museum that sits smack in the middle of the city. 

It is a very interesting memorial, it is a concrete square building. The entire exhibit is extremely simple with rusted walls that resemble the stories and memories that will start to fade from the survivors. This really stuck with me because my grandmother is a holocaust survivor from four concentration camps, luckily she is still alive.  

Shabbat services tonight was memorable at The Great Synogauge of Bucharest. It was the most intricate and gorgeous snyoguge I’ve ever stepped in. It resembled the nicest church in Rome that you can imagine, however it could maybe fit 400 people instead of a couple thousand.  

At dinner at the JCC of Bucharest; Jason, Lyndsey, and I made the intiative to sit near some young Romanian adults for the first time, but it turned out they were 14 year olds. Hahaha. I’m excited to see what day 2 has in store for us! 

Good Night!

- Brent Wagner

Beware of the phog!

Well.... We have been sitting in the Sofia airport since about 8:30 a.m. The fog is so thick here that the plane can't depart from Sofia or land in Bucharest. The KU saying "beware of the phog" has taken on a whole new meaning. 

January 8th - Day Four

Today has been one of my favorite days thus far. We spent the morning at the public Jewish school in Sofia. We had the opportunity to interact with high schoolers in their English classroom. We played a classic ice breaker called "move your butt" and we challenged their American knowledge with a game of jeopardy. The amount that they knew was awesome and surprising!

We also had a chance to ask questions where we learned about their academic success. Their 4th grade classroom was actually the highest scoring in Bulgaria. They were incredibly proud of their success and expect more to come.  The school is 30% Jewish and are offered both Hebrew and English classes. They educate students from 1st grade until 12th and it is a competitive process to be accepted. It was very fascinating and reminded me of the private school system back in the States.

We then received a tour of the school where we said hello to a few younger classrooms, visited their media room where they have a radio, television, and recording system. We especially enjoyed that their bell to switch classes was a song rather than the typical annoying ringing noise we grew up with.

As a future educator, the school was one of my favorite experiences thus far and I loved the opportunity to learn about a school so different yet so similar to what I know. I will use what I learned to help me become the best teacher I can be.

I cannot wait for what more we have to come on this incredible adventure. The time in Bulgaria has definitely flown by!

- Stacy Bernstein 

This morning related perfectly to my English Education major. We went to a prestigious K-12 Jewish school and spoke English with the students in their English classes. 

I was really impressed with their ability to speak it! Our trip to the school also made me want to teach abroad at some point in the future. After lunch we went to the JCC and played with the preschoolers. 

There's a reason I plan to teach middle and high schoolers as opposed to elementary students. They were so cute and fun, really! But I chose to simply sit back and observe rather than awkwardly join in. However, in general, today was a very relaxing and fun day.

On another note, I want to talk about my overall experience in Bulgaria. I now understand the meaning of this trip. Sure, the Jewish community needs all the money they can get to continue their absolutely wonderful programming here, but there is more to this than just money. 

After spending the day at a Jewish K-12 school and playing with the preschoolers at the JCC, all 23 of us and our Bulgarian peers sat in a circle and a few of us shared our thoughts of the trip. 

Brent spoke first and gave a beautiful, informal speech. He mentioned a quote that one of our Bulgarian friends told him. Where most Bulgarians would consider themselves "surviving, not living," Mimi believes that because of the Jewish community here and us visiting, they are not only surviving, they are living. 

With our help, from dancing and singing with the elderly, to watching my peers play with little kids, we made their lives more than just surviving. 

- Pearl Sonnenschein 

Today was a mix of emotions. In the morning, we split into groups to lead activities for high school students at the Jewish school to encourage practicing English. 

I really enjoyed this because I had the opportunity to step into the role of a leader. Since this is a leadership mission, I felt surprisingly overwhelmed to be leading a group of leaders - it was a unique experience for me.

I helped organize the game "Move Your Butt," and with the help of Alex we led an informal game of Jeopardy. The entire 40 minutes flew by. 

Hours later, and we were sitting in a circle at the JCC in the same room that we had dinner in on our very first night in Bulgaria. This was a time for some final comments and reflections. As we neared the end of the conversation, I was shocked to find myself crying. It amazes me that in what seems to have been a very short 3 days that I was able to bond and connect with my Bulgarian peers to the point of tears. 

I am so sad to be leaving this country, but cannot wait to see what Romania has in store for us. 

- Lyndsey Havens

Today we went a Jewish school for grades 1st-12th grade. The environment was very different from a regular American public school because the students focus more on graduating from High School than going to a University.

When we first arrived at the High School, I was afraid that the Bulgarian students were going to judge us because we did not know their culture or language. However, they were very welcoming, and in fact knew a lot about Americans and our culture, society, and language.

Later on in the day, we went to the Kindergarten at the JCC and had loads of fun with them. As I walked into the room, the kids ran up and hugged me, without knowing who or where I came from. The grins on their faces as we entered the room made my day. We were supposed to teach them American games, but instead, they taught us amazing Bulgarian dances and songs. 

The experiences at the Bulgarian schools were eye opening in a way that I will never forget. The Bulgarians left an impact on me that changed this trip for me for the better, and I am forever grateful.

- Austin Ruben 

January 7th - Day Three

Throughout the past two days we have experienced the strength and prosperity of the Bulgarian Jewish community first hand. As a group, we have been participating in different programs funded by the Kansas City Jewish Federation that provide assistance and support for the elderly. 

Today we all split into partners and met with a senior citizen who receives benefits from the Shalom Organization funded by the JCC of Sofia and the JDC.  During our home visits, I had the opportunity to meet Eshua Almalech – a 90-year-old double survivor of the Holocaust and the Communist Regime.  He told Pearl and I his story and explained how the Bulgarian community saved his life during World War II. 

While almost every other European country allied with the Germans and sent their Jewish communities to the concentration camps, the Bulgarian government and church refused to take part in the mass extermination of the Jewish people.  Eshua explained to us how his family was on the train to go to the concentration camps when they were told to go home – the Bulgarian government had defended the Jewish people, who were first and foremost Bulgarian citizens.  

This experience was not only heart warming and life changing, but it also allowed me to view the holocaust from another perspective.

-Leah Swartz

We concluded our day by enjoying a traditional Bulgarian dinner, full of lamb, chicken, veal, trout and lots of wine! The meal was nothing short of a feast, and our new Bulgarian friends joined us as well. 

During the appetizers, we got to watch live music and Bulgarian dancing – which we learned earlier today at the JCC Elderly Day Care Center! It was so fun watching our new moves come to life! Dinner was full of laughter, shared stories and yummy dessert (Turkish Delight/Benitza). 

The highlight of my day was when we all came together and reflected on the work we’ve done the past 48-ish hours. We talked about our obligation as Jewish people to give back to those less fortunate than us, and although we are all ready to change the world, it’s the small steps that will make the biggest impact. 

Something that I’ve learned on this trip so far is that “the heart can’t feel what the eyes can’t see.” I have truly been touched by the individuals we’ve met, and the stories we’ve heard. I am so excited to see what the rest of the trip will bring!

-Alex Null

Though our time here as been short, today might have been my favorite day. We started off by visiting a market in the Sofia Mall where we grocery shopped for a small gift/treat to bring with us to our home visits. Stephanie and I decided to get some delicious looking pastries for our hosts. 

We then spent some time at the JCC dancing, eating, and cooking. From here, we split off into our pairs and were off to our home visits. I was fairly nervous at first because I had absolutely no idea what to expect. The couple welcomed us into their home with such a warm approach, and I could feel their genuine happiness in having us there with them. Stephanie, and our Bulgarian translator Natalie, spent over an hour talking with the couple about their Jewish roots. 

A common thread that we were able to find was the idea of "it is never too late." This concept is one that we discuss with Hillel - in that it is never too late to get involved within the Jewish community, Jewish culture, and your Jewish identity. 

Talking with the couple about how during communism they were unable to practice or learn about Judaism and how it wasn't until after WWII when they were able to return to school that they were able to connect with Judaism. 

The couple told us that being Jewish is not about being religious, and that it is rather about making a choice to identify and develop a personal identity and connection to Jewish culture. 

Finally, our day concluded with a great dinner at a traditional Bulgarian restaurant. I have been anticipating a meal like this for weeks - and it didn't disappoint. It was nice to have this time to relax, eat, and laugh. 

- Lyndsey Havens

Today I learned that the Jewish community, no matter where you are, makes the large world a very small place. 

In 2010, I attended a bbyo international summer program called Kallah, held in Pennsylvania. There, I remembered that I had met and became friends with a Bulgarian named Denis. Although we lost touch over the years, I decided to Facebook message him before the trip telling him what we were coming to Bulgaria to do, and told him that it would be great to see him if I had the chance. 

He told me that unfortunately he would be in Italy studying architecture , but nonetheless it was still awesome to hear from him. 

The small Jewish world became alive before my eyes today as I was walking with Tori and a Bulgarian named Daria towards our home visit. As we were walking, Daria stopped because she saw some friends ahead, and of course, guess who it was: Denis! 

The moment was truly amazing; I gave him a hug, and we caught up and I talked to him about his studies and our experiences in Bulgaria so far. 

After we left, I couldn't stop smiling. This is why I love being Jewish; no matter where you go, it seems, you always can find a meaningful Jewish connection.

-Samantha Levine